Sunday, July 14, 2013

Let Freedom Ring!

As Jade and I sat on the beach on July 3rd, a typical Wednesday in Chacala, we racked our brains to figure out how to celebrate Independence Day for ourselves.

I have never been out of the country on the 4th of July so I have always been surrounded by people clamoring to celebrate the holiday that rings of our freedom.

In Mexico, it would be just another Thursday, just like last week and just like next week.

It was hard to imagine that there would be no parades, fairs, or my favorite, fireworks. No red-white-and blue clothing and Popsicles. And definitely no proudly waving American flags in front of every house.

 I have taken for granted that there is usually not much pressure to plan something for ourselves because there is a myriad of public events to give us our fill of excitement and patriotic celebration.

We had no clue what to do. Even though, "when in Rome," we are happy to celebrate Mexican holidays, something in my heart did not feel right about skipping this US holiday. We were determined to find a way, however small, to celebrate our American freedom.

At first I wanted to barbecue. That's the perfect American summer tradition, isn't it? But wait... we don't have a barbecue. All we have is a stove. We could fry something? But we didn't have any typical barbecue food anyway. Jade and I usually stick to the cheap Mexican style food here and I don't think rice and beans would have captured the sentiment we were going for.

Baking a patriotic dessert would be fun and delicious, the best combination. but ...actually our oven has never been used. Vicki said she doesn't cook much and hasn't lighted it since it was installed. (Those are NOT the type of fireworks I would like to see this year.) Also no baking ingredients or even a pan I think I could use. And what exactly makes a dessert patriotic, anyway? Does it need to be red, white, and blue? Because frosting is definitely out of  the question.

We thought about the fireworks we heard going off the previous Sunday during church in Las Varas (which at first I thought were gunshots... not scary AT ALL). It would be very traditional to have fireworks. I wondered where we could buy them and my mind wandered over whether they were legal here. Buying fireworks out of the trunk of a guy's car on a sketchy side street hiding from Policia is not the American adventure I was looking for either. Scratch that plan.

So after many failed attempts my best idea was to simply eat American food, not a single taco or burrito all day, and to just enjoy ourselves.

I know there didn't HAVE to be an outward expression of our celebration. Having pride, joy, and gratitude in our hearts for our freedoms in America is all the holiday is really about.

I am so extremely grateful to our Lord for leading our Founding Fathers to secure such a wonderful nation with God-given rights and freedoms such as religious freedom, freedom of speech, the right to bear arms, the right to due-process and a fair trial, the right to defend ourselves and our family, and so many others.

I cannot put into words how grateful I am to those who serve in our military to defend those rights and freedoms at great personal cost. And for their families for the cost they bear just the same.

There are a lot of difficulties that our country is facing but despite the trials, I am so completely PROUD to be American that I wanted to find a way to pay tribute in my heart, to show my thanks.

And so instead of our typical avocado/egg breakfast tacos, we ate cereal for breakfast. We had pb&js for lunch. We SO enjoyed everyone's Facebook and Instagram posts which  made us feel a part of the festivities. And we sat on the beach all afternoon, just being grateful.





And then an unexpected gift, Ethan Edmunds saw us on the beach when he was heading out for a swim. He strolled over to us and invited us to his family's house for dinner.

Ethan, 13 is the oldest son of Chuck and Colleen Edmunds. They are an American family that recently moved down here from California. Their work is with Global Church Partners, working with and training local pastors (www.globalchurchpartners.com). They have 2 other kids, Syndey is 11, and Alistair is 4.

We met them a few weeks ago on the beach when they were hanging out with a couple friends that were in town vacationing. What a pleasure it has been to get to know them! Chuck and Colleen are the kindest, greatest people and their kids are all very creative, talented, and sweet. It's funny to me that I hardly notice Ethan and Sydney's ages. They are so fun to be around they just seem like friends.

...And no, I am not just saying that because they will probably read this.

So we got to have a barbecue dinner after all, chicken, potatoes, and pineapple, and a patriotic dessert to top it all off.




As we gawked at Ethan's amazing photography skills in his photos from the lightning storm the previous night, he reminded me that the storm had been a pretty great natural "fireworks" show too. Check out his photo! AMAZING!!




Let freedom ring! 



Monday, June 24, 2013

Paraiso Escondido


Another Sunday has passed us by but this time I didn't let it get away from me without snapping a few photos for you guys. I wasn't exaggerating about how hard this place was to find.


This is the view from the street, Puebla Norte. It is seriously close to the dead end of town. But this is it on the right, Paraiso Escondido, hidden paradise. 




See the door behind those trees there?
 ...I consider it a miracle we ever found the place. 





Below, the view from the back of the room, behind the congregation. Actually those 3 rows of chairs are all there are. 

The room is open air and to the left of the chairs is the garden I mentioned. It's fun to watch birds fly in and play in the shade. Wait... what was the speaker talking about again? It's too easy to get distracted. I have to really focus on the Spanish.Oh wait, the roof is really cool. How do they do that? 

There are 2 fans at the back of the room to keep us from overheating. Behind the curtain is the Branch President's office.






There is only one person to bless the sacrament and one person to pass it. Good thing they don't need a microphone cause they definitely don't have one. There is the one single light bulb in the whole building and it goes off and on randomly during our meetings (so many bad jokes about bright ideas).

The chalk board is used for our Sunday School lessons. Sister Anaya does an awesome job at making them easy to understand. And on the right is little Jahaziel (Hasee-el), pretending to be shy. You're not fooling me for one second, bub. 


I don't think I mentioned in my past blog about the lack of piano... yep. Singing in Spanish is hard enough. Trying to go A'Capella in another language is tough!  I'm lucky they haven't asked me to stop singing yet...


Us with La Familia Anaya:
Jade, Jahaziel, Lisa, Lilia, Francisco, Gisele, and Anel
Anel was here visiting this week from college in Guadalajara.It was our first time meeting her. She gave an awesome talk in Sacrament though. I didn't even need to translate her testimony of prayer. It was so beautiful. 

Sunday, June 23, 2013

Why can’t I do that Frontside Cutback anymore...?


I like to think I used to be a little bit better than Jade at surfing. 

We spent half our honeymoon surfing in Sayulita, Nayarit, just about an hour south of Chacala Bay. We were addicted to the waves and only ever got out of the water because of hunger or lack of funds. It cost too much to rent surfboards for the entire week.

On the day of our flight home we spent all morning in the surf until the last possible moment before we had to run back, check out, and catch our bus to the airport.

Since then we have surfed in Hawaii and California as well. Somehow Jade surpassed my skills and now coaches me while he catches nearly everything, effortlessly.

We have been itching to hit the waves since we got here 2 weeks ago but a tiny part of me has been secretly reluctant. We have PLENTY of time, I told myself as I let day by day pass me by.

We have been asking around about good surf spots and we are still in the process of tracking down a couple surfboards. I will be happy with the 8 foot soft top board they sell at Costco here but Jade has his heart set on a fiberglass board. He is still watching online classifieds and asking around.

The other day we were helping out a neighbor, Tobi. She asked us to check on her dogs in case she didn't make it back from the dentist early enough to let them out of the house. She got home while we were over there and we got talking on the topic of surfing. She has one of the Costco boards and has been dreaming of surfing for years. She’s not quite in “surfing shape” she called it and is afraid of trying it alone.  She needs a coach and can’t afford a lesson.

That’s when she told us that she needed to head down to Sayulita the next day to go to the vet there and we hatched a plan to meet down there, for her to loan us her board in exchange for a quick surf lesson. “I’m old and won’t have the energy to stay very long but it would mean the world to me to have someone in the water with me, giving me pointers.”

And so we finally ventured out into the surf world here. We met Tobi on the beach the next morning. We brought our umbrella and a couple chairs and she brought her dogs, Utah and Sherpa.

By the time we were set up there were plenty of people in the water. It’s later in the season than when we were here before and it was definitely evident in the sheer number of people in the water.

There was a surf school in session and lots of lobster-red tourists playing Frisbee and bobbing in the surf. Every five minutes we kindly turned down some handmade item being sold by another vendor walking on the sand. “No, gracias… Gracias, no, gracias. Que te vaya bien.”

But all that mattered was that there were waves. Chacala bay is very rarely surf-able so it made my heart happy to see people out on boards, catching the incoming sets in Sayulita. What was even better is that they were nice and easy, a perfect re-introduction to the sport to keep me from getting intimidated.

I volunteered dog-sitting duty while Jade spent an hour in the water with Tobi, talking mostly. He pushed her into a couple waves and eventually she was able to stand up! She was ecstatic and exhausted as she came up out of the water. She had tweaked her hip and was unaware that her nose was bleeding. But she had been waiting a long time for that progress so she was happy and she left to tend to her injuries and her dogs.

After that, Jade and I traded off with the board playing in the water when it wasn't our turn. 





The beach was a very shallow which was nice so short-little-me could touch the ground even when out in the waves with Jade.


The sand was incredible. It was very fine and glittered with specs of gold. When the sand was turned up by the shore breaking waves or by my feet dancing around in the water, there was so much gold glittering around in the water I thought I should be able to collect it and turn it in for money. 


The city of Sayulita is even more immersed in jungle than Chacala. Just sitting on the board and looking around was breathtaking. 


And the surfing… How can I describe the feeling?

I think catching a wave on a surfboard is what I was born for. I feel undeniable happiness as energizing electricity flows through my body from my toes to my fingertips conducted by the water around me. 

I wasn't as good as I wanted to be. I never have been. Even watching surfing on TV as a child I knew this is what I wanted to do every day for the rest of my life. (Nevermind that I ended up living in Las Vegas, dry and barren desert, Nevada, which I actually love regardless of the lack of rolling waves).

When I see surfers I transpose my face on their bodies in my mind and think I am getting barreled in the wave instead of them. I’m only slightly devastated and impatient with myself when I paddle into a wave, can’t figure out the timing, and “pearl,” nosediving into the water and get sucked into the washing machine spin cycle.

I just won first place in that competition in Huntington Beach on TV last month. Why can’t I do that Frontside Cutback anymore...?

I try to give myself a little credit, though, and with a few tips from Jade, I caught some really good waves. I tell myself that it’s all about practice and I will soon be riding out waves doing headstands on my board (as I saw someone doing last time I was in Sayulita all those years ago).  And even if I don’t, I will always be happy doing this, just taking it easy.

And that feeling of utter joy that I get as I pop to my feet and drop into a wave that swells my heart like the Grinch to 10 times its normal size will never go away.  






When we noticed the date we realized it was only fitting. It was June 21, the first day of summer and the longest day of the year, obviously prophetic of many summer days to come.

Finally, exhausted and sun kissed, we decided to grab a bite to eat before heading back. We had delicious shrimp quesadillas at Sayulita Tacos where we enjoyed the wall murals almost as much as the food. It’s hard to aim right when you’re taking a selfie. 

oops.. bad aim.

That's what I meant to do!




We took a short walk up the familiar street to the vacation rental where we spent our honeymoon just over 3 years ago and tried to do a re-creation shot of an old photo.

3 years ago on our Luna de Miel (honeymoon)



On the drive home we couldn’t stop talking about how energized we are to head back to Sayulita as soon as possible. In fact, we will be heading into Puerto Vallarta in the next couple days to get my board.


Rip Curl sponsorship here I come!

Wednesday, June 19, 2013

Only a couple days after we got into town we had already lost track of time.

Only a couple days after we got into town we had already lost track of time.

The day Vicki and Tandy left for the States Jade and I took a day trip into Puerto Vallarta (about an hour and a half drive each way) to hit up Costco and Wal-Mart.

We needed to stock up since the tiendas in Chacala only have necessities, basically bread, milk, eggs,  a few fruits and veggies (tomatoes, onions, oranges, and bananas), and a little junk food. We got enough food to last a few weeks.

So the day after our trip we were ready to take a lazy day. No swimming, no exercising. I mainly read and played the ukulele which Jade and I have both been trying to learn. I learned a new song, “It’s Time” by Imagine Dragons. It’s my first song with bar chords, at which I am terrible, but I love that song.

We took a walk on the beach around sunset. It was only then that I realized that it was Sunday. Oops!

We had missed church and I was disappointed. Attending a local branch was something I was looking forward to here. Man, I had missed my first opportunity.

We had done some research. Mormon.org claims there is a LDS branch in Las Varas, the tiny town on the highway right before the turn off to Chacala.

10:00 am, it says, at 26 Puebla Norte.

When Jade was here visiting 2 years ago he had hoped to go to a Mexican branch. He looked it up and the website had given him this exact same information. He had driven up and down the streets with his mom and brothers but they were unsuccessful finding the meetinghouse. If it exists at all, it must be hidden.

Knowing they had been unsuccessful before, I suggested that we take a trip into Las Varas a couple days before the next Sunday so we could try to find the place ahead of time. I was determined not to let this Sunday pass me by too.

We headed out there on Friday. We drove into Las Varas, and parked on a random street.

We had a few errands to run first. Jade got our Chacala cell phone set up with a Mexico phone number (Thanks Danny White for the lender phone!)  so we could be reachable to the locals and in case we had any emergencies while we were out on trips.

We stopped at a few tiendas, bought some groceries, a few dvds for 20 pesos apiece (about $1.30), and had lunch at a cute little Mexican place that, if you ask me, tried too hard to be like an American place. It was good, though, and we were full and energized for our search.

We quickly found Puebla Norte. Good thing Jade is good with directions because I wouldn't have found it on my own. The lack of street signs in Mexico is infuriating to me. I am not spoiled enough to really NEED Google Maps to lead me turn-by-turn directly to my destination. Fine. But can’t I even rely on a good old fashioned map? No. That would be too easy.

We turn down Puebla, trying to notice any numbers or signs that would indicate if we are even close. 
According to the online map we memorized earlier, we should be passing it right now. But the buildings look empty, abandoned, and dilapidated. “Maybe they’re so righteous that their meetinghouse was taken up into Heaven,” I suggest.

Jade thinks aloud, “Maybe if we turn here and circle the block, we might find another opening. Maybe it’s on a weird side street or something.” We try that with no luck. We circle around and get back on Puebla. We try heading the other direction, looking for any clues. Again there is nothing.

“The problem,” Jade says, “is that it could just be upstairs in some random building, or it could be in the back room of the Branch President’s house for all we know.” We decide that maybe on Sunday we will have better luck. Maybe we will see people walking in with white shirts and ties. It’s not likely but we can tell nothing is going to come from our efforts today. We decide to pack up and head home.

When Sunday morning rolls around I want to get out there early enough that we have time to drive around and search some more. It seems foreign to be wearing church clothes, even though we went to church 2 weeks ago in the States. It’s just so hot. Is Jade’s tie really necessary? I've never been to a branch meeting. I've never been to church outside of the United States. I don’t know what to expect.

We drive the same roads, circle the same blocks we did only a couple of days ago. It seems so hopeless. “Maybe we’ll have better luck searching in La Peñita next week. Let’s try there,” I say. But Jade wants to drive around the block again. He refuses to be defeated. We say another quick prayer.

Again, we find ourselves at Puebla Road.

Do we take a left or a right? Uh… let’s try a right. So we do. We look up and down all the buildings on either side of the road with no indication as to where we are for a bit. We finally notice the numbers on one of the houses, 45. Then the next, 53. We are going the wrong direction. Good to know. We turn around.
I watch the numbers as much as I can. Jade sees a 33. We are getting close. We are sure the church has to be somewhere on this block but we just don’t see it. Is it invisible!? I’m ready to give up.

The street that we cross says it is 14 and then the next building we can find numbers on says 8. Again, too far. We turn around and head back down the same street for what seems like the tenth time.

We pass the Street 14 and pull over next to the first building. It has 2 doors on the first level. The gate on the door on the right is closed. The gate on the left is open and there is an old woman sitting inside. That is definitely not a church. But we can finally see the number above her doorway on the building. It says 26. I could swear that’s the number we are looking for but I can’t be sure anymore.  Too many numbers are swirling around in my head.

What about the door on the right? It looks closed up. The greenery is overgrown in the doorway and there are big trees growing right in front of the building, hiding most of it. That is when we see the sign, hand carved out of wood on a tiny 18 square inch sign hung on the second floor, almost completely hidden by tree. La Iglesia de Jesucristo de los Santos de los Ãšltimos Días. We made it. We looked at the clock, 9:52. Good timing, we wouldn't even be late.

The front door opened up into small room which was the living room back when this used to be a home. 
There were stairs that went up to somewhere but we heard people in the back so we stayed on the first floor. Directly back from the living room was an open air corridor that lead into the “chapel,” the FRONT of the chapel.

I was horrified to realize that the people we heard was actually one man. He was standing at the pulpit speaking.  We were supposed to still have 5 minutes. I don’t speak very much Spanish yet but I could understand enough to tell he was not just conducting business or introducing speakers. He was giving his talk. Jade and I realized that church must have started at 9:00 am. Dang it! Such a short victory.
It was too late to turn around though, we had been spotted. We filed past the speaker, past the small congregation to a couple empty seats in the back.

As the speaker finished up I looked around. I counted the members. Including the speaker there were 4 men, 3 women, and 4 kids ranging from 5 years old up into teenage years. On the left side of the room it was open, no roof, and there was an impressive tropical garden that took up as much room as the congregation.
Behind us was what used to be a kitchen area. Up front there was a pulpit, a sacrament table, and a chalk board hanging on the wall with notes from last week’s lesson.

I tried so hard to listen to this man’s talk. I had to strain to hear his words through his mumbling. Certain words would jump out at me but I was honestly too distracted by my new surroundings to catch the topic of the sermon. He quickly finished up. I sang my first Spanish hymn and then another member stood up and said a quick prayer.

And then I waited. I knew the attention was coming but I also knew I would have to let Jade volley most of the conversations. The members were so kind. They asked where we are from, where we are staying, how we like it here. They wanted to know where Jade learned his Spanish. They said he speaks well. Since he learned on his mission in Honduras, he tells them, people usually tell him he sounds like a cowboy.

We told them we would be staying for a few months and they were delighted. We also told them that online it says their meeting starts at 10:00. We didn't just lose track of time and sleep in.

I easily understood most of their questions and Jade’s answers but usually a few seconds too late, not quickly enough to contribute much, sometimes a laugh and a nod. They were delighted that Jade could speak their language and their questions ate up a good chunk of time into the Sunday School hour.

The man that had given the talk in Sacrament Meeting was actually the Branch President, Francisco Anaya. His wife, Lilia, had been the first one to approach us. They belong to two of the children from the congregation that had already herded the other kids upstairs for Primary.

When the questions died down Lilia started her Sunday school lesson in the same room. I understood the topic, the Plan of Salvation, but understood less than half of what was said. I kept telling myself that’s still pretty good! I daydreamed about what it will be like when there’s not a delay in my head, while I am translating almost every word into English. That just got me more lost and I had to focus, once again, to find the topic of conversation.

Sometimes I thought I knew what people were saying, but I was far from being sure. It was mostly a wild guess leaning on a weak foundation of “educated.” I would lean to Jade and say something like, “She’s talking about the Spirit Paradise, right? Was that guy’s question about the Atonement?”

His answer was usually a “yes” but it wasn't hard to keep the confidence from going to my head. There was still SO much I couldn't comprehend. They called on Jade to read some scriptures and it helped for me to follow along.

As the class came to a close I realized that in Relief Society I would be completely on my own, without Jade to translate for me. I felt a flutter of anxiety but I was trying to mask my insecurity from Jade. He said we didn't have to stay for third hour but he was encouraging and I decided to “fake it ‘till you make it.” The confidence, that is—not the Spanish. Faking Spanish would confuse me more than the real thing.

I told Jade that I wanted to stay for Relief Society. When Sunday School closed Sister Anaya and the other woman in the class, an old, leathery looking woman, headed down the corridor back toward the front of the building and the men were gathering in the chapel. I guess that’s my cue, turn the bravery on.

I got up and followed the two women. When they got back to the living room area they set up a few folding chairs. The old woman was sitting at the front, ready to teach. Sister Anaya sat next to me. That was it, just us three.

I was on my own. Jade had done most of the talking for us earlier. These women didn't know if I could understand a word out of their mouths, really. Time for the test of my skills.

I told them in my very best Spanish that I don’t know a lot of the language. I understand a lot but can’t speak very much… “Mi esposo me está enseñando.” My husband is teaching me.

The ladies proceed to tell me that they don’t speak a word of English. …Oh perfect. I had hoped that they would know at least a little, since it seems like lots of people here do. But at the same time I was glad. It would force me to rise to the challenge.

We started class and I could quickly tell that the sister that was teaching is new to the church. She was so sweet. She had so many questions. Sister Anaya ended up doing most of the teaching that hour as well.
We were reading sections from a manual about the Proclamation on the Family. There was a long discussion about the old woman’s grandson who has a novia, a girlfriend, and about temple ordinances.

I was caught off guard when they turned to me to ask a question and I didn't understand. Sister Anaya couldn't remember the English word for “nacer.” She was trying hard, racking her brain and it suddenly came back to me. I remember Jade teaching me about that word. “Yes, I was born into the church. All of my brothers and sisters and my mom was too, but not my dad,” I replied in Spanish. And then I lost the conversation again.

They got speaking so fast that I ended up just staring at them with a blank expression on my face. But I could tell that the lesson was heartfelt and the Spirit was strong.

When the lesson was over Sister Anaya and I were trying to have a conversation. If I didn't understand, she would repeat it, slower, and try to help me.

She told me that her husband likes to fish in Chacala. I told her that Jade is from a family that loves to fish as well. In fact, we like to eat fish more than most other types of meat. “Oh!” She got excited, “you have to come to our house for dinner sometime and have fish. My husband just caught some yesterday and we have a lot in our refrigerator.”

“Perfecto,” I said. “Anytime,” I said in English because I didn't know the translation. She picked up her bag and headed straight back into the chapel where the Priesthood Meeting had just ended.

She ran up to where her husband was already talking to Jade and filled them in on her idea. “Hoy?” She said. “I don’t have anything made yet but we can go home now and start cooking.” So we took her up on her offer.

Since we had our car we gave Sister Anaya and her kids a ride to their house a few blocks up. It was the quintessential Mexican home, hand built by President Anaya, his brother, and four Mormon missionaries, we were told.  The roof was made of brick arches, the rooms were very open, and the furnishings were modest. There was a garden in back with a blow up swimming pool for the little boy.

The boy, whose name escapes me, is 5 years old, his sister, probably 14. They have 2 older siblings, a brother on a mission and a sister away at college. The little guy was obviously ecstatic to have another boy around the house. He was hyper to have Jade’s undivided attention, which left me with the ladies in the kitchen… the ladies who don’t speak any English… and no one to translate. There is only so much you can say with a preschool  vocabulary.

“Qué puedo hacer para ayudarte?” I asked. I wanted to help cook. In addition to helping take some of the pressure off the family to cook, I also thought it would take some of the pressure off the conversation.

But no. “Nada,” I was told.

“Nada? Estás segura?  Hay ALGO que puedo hacer. Quiero ayudarte.”

“Ah,” Sister Anaya said as she seemed to think of some way I could help. “Come,” She said, “Eat.” And she handed me a bucket full of mangoes.

Well I was hungry. And I do love mangoes. And I didn't want to fight and be a bad guest. So I decided to let her have the victory. I started chopping up mangoes and took a bowl to Jade and the boy. He found me a starfruit in the back yard which I was ecstatic about. I have been looking for starfruit ever since my first one 6 years ago in Hawaii. I loved it. The Anaya family has a tree. Lucky me.

Brother Anaya had to run up the highway to La Peñita to log tithing. He would join us a little later.

The meal that Sister Anaya prepared was delicious and perfect, all homemade and simple. She blended up some beans with a hand held electric blender that she told me she has had for 18 years! She scooped the beans onto 5 plates along with fresh Pico de Gallo and a large filet of fried fish. Tortillas and tostadas were on the table along with some chopped mangoes courtesy of moi, and a delicious noodle soup I had never seen before.

The conversation flowed easily and soon Brother Anaya got home to join in as well. They told us about their kids and showed us pictures of their son on his mission in Chile. Sister Anaya and her daughter gave me the recipe for the soup. I made Jade translate everything word for word to make sure I had it right and then repeat everything back again. She gave me a bag of the noodles so I could try it soon.

We soon realized that we had been there for almost 5 hours! The time had flown by. We were in no hurry to leave but it was Fathers' Day and we wanted time to Skype with our families before it got too late. We thanked them so much for the wonderful meal and conversation. What a beautiful family and what a fun experience! Seven straight hours of Spanish practice had me a little worn out. They loaded us up with a sack of mangoes and starfruit and we were on our way.


What a Sunday. I am definitely looking forward to next week. I promised myself I would try very hard to not lose track of Sundays anymore.

Click here for photos of our adventure!

Tuesday, June 11, 2013

Bienvenidos!

The craziest thing about this trip is that we'll have to do it all over again in reverse in the fall. After all the rains  of the summer, though, we are told the country will look quite different. 

For all of you who were as nervous for us as we were for ourselves, and for those who may read this to get information for future trips, I hope you enjoy this very long, very detailed post about our drive.

Day 1

9:30 am                Left Vegas (reset trip odometer).

 
 I was on the phone with our insurance agency cancelling our policy. We purchased an international policy through another company to cover us while we are gone. We had to take advantage of our last day with our phones.

There was no traffic near the dam. Thank goodness! Before the new bridge was finished we have been stuck there for hours!

11:20 am              Stopped in Kingman, AZ for ½ tank of gas and bathroom break (111 miles).

I started reading a James Patterson novel aloud. I should have been paying more attention to navigating. We had taken this route to Arizona to visit family and must have gotten comfortable. It’s easy to forget that it gets confusing.

Shortly thereafter I realized that we were on the wrong highway! I re-directed our GoogleMaps and it had us taking a scenic route through a state park. Since it didn't add on too much time we decided to stick to it. It was beautiful and green and we were grateful for the mistake. There were sooo many cops, though. I don’t know what was going down but we had to have seen 40 police officers pulling people over, especially semis trucks.

2:00 pm                Stopped in Somewhere, AZ for ½ tank and bathroom break (305 miles).

3:30 pm                In Phoenix, AZ (409 miles).

No stops in Phoenix and it felt like we were ahead of schedule. The GPS was giving us confusing directions.

6:00 pm                Arrived in Nogales, AZ, our destination for the night (577 miles).

It already looked like Mexico. It seems like such a tiny town so we were surprised to drive by a college.


We check in at our hotel, the Americana Inn. Jade was a little carsick so we took a short nap. We didn't have a lot of time, though, so we got up and ran to Wal-Mart. We didn't want to stop during our drive the next day because we knew we would be pressed for time. We got fix-ins for sandwiches and other snacks.
It took forever to find a gas station that was still open. It didn't seem that late! The one we found was actually like 2 blocks from the border. We got to a point where the signs seriously said, “If you keep driving you will be in Mexico. Turn around if that’s not what you want.” We filled up and noticed the big fence along the hills.


We had a quick dinner at Denny’s, last chance for terrible, delicious American food for a little while. We made a couple last minute phone calls to family then headed back to our hotel. We made our sandwiches there in the room and then hurried to get ready for bed.

Despite our best efforts we slept terribly! The bed was horridly uncomfortable and we were a bit nervous for the next day.

When we woke up we spent a few minutes on the phone telling our credit card companies that we were travelling and then we had to turn off our cell phones so we wouldn't be charged roaming. There seemed to be so many last minute things…

Day 2

5:45 am                Crossed the border into Nogales, Mexico.


It was 2 minutes from our hotel. We got a green light so we kept driving straight through. I had been expecting more stops, more guards, more checking for documents or something. It felt bizarre to drive a couple blocks and be in a little Mexican town.


Jade had done a lot of research beforehand so we had most of the documents we needed. The only thing we still had to get was our FMM, our tourist visa. No one was stopping us and asking for it but if we were caught without it we would probably get in trouble.

We had driven a little too far so we parked on some random street and walked back up to the immigration building. No one was around except for 5 or 6 homeless guys sleeping right outside the door. We walked in and were directed around the corner. There was a nice guy who helped us fill everything out. It was fast and helped that I had exact change of $55 USD.

We walked back to our car and since we had to get off the main road to park we were worried about getting back on the highway. Looking for directions was so intimidating because there were no street signs! We just kept driving until we figured out that we were in the right place.


Once we found the highway it was very easy. Jade purchased a map online from Bell & Bell for $10 USD at http://www.ontheroadin.com/.

It was INVALUABLE!! It gives turn by turn directions for the entire drive, lists most gas stations and km markings, even topes (Mexican speed bumps) to warn you to go slow. Our trip would have been 1,000 times more confusing and stressful without it.

Also invaluable to our sanity were our books. I finished the James Patterson novel and we started Ender's Game, on tape. Although I love reading aloud, after an entire novel within 24 hours my voice was glad for the break.

11:00 am              Stopped for ½ tank and bathroom break near Guaymas (826 miles).

Their normal bathrooms were closed so we went around back. They were disgusting but did have free toilet paper, which I had been warned might not always be the case. Small victories…

12:10 pm              Hit a detour. The highway was closed heading into Obregon.

We didn't know where the detour was going. It was extremely hard to follow people since we were heading towards the town. People were going a lot of different places. We couldn't count on them leading us back to the highway. After driving around a little, knowing we couldn't waste a lot of time, I broke Jade down and asked him to ask for directions.

We finally found our way in the city only to have another road closed. We had to ask for directions again. It blew us away that many people didn't know what roads to take with the highway closed. Eventually one lady told Jade that we could cut through the parking lot of a nearby store and cut onto the highway just past the blockade. We were a bit uneasy but decided to give it a shot. Luckily there was a truck that pulled in just ahead of us that was doing the same thing. Monkey see, monkey do, right? The Policia would accept that wouldn't they?

It worked. For about 20 yards and we hit another road block. What in the world was going on!? Was there a big event or something? This time we were on a stretch of highway that was leaving the town. Jade pulled up the Policia and quickly asked where to go, hoping for better instructions. No such luck. “Just follow all the other cars. You’ll see where they cut across and come back on the highway a little ways down.” 

Hmmmm…  Alright… What else could we do?

He was right, though. Since we were leaving the town all the cars were heading in the same direction. We took a dirt road down to someone’s farm. I would have been nervous if there weren't 30 other cars and semis doing the same thing. There was a HUGE ditch and the Policia had directed one-way traffic down either side of the ditch. We were not “flying” by any means but at least we were not at a stand-still. And at least we were not lost.


The dirt road was kicking up A LOT of dust. At times we could barely see the car ahead of us. We got down towards the end of the ditch where the cars were cutting across a narrow bridge of dirt and the highway was in view from there. FREEDOM!

That was when we hit a dead stop. Seriously? SERIOUSLY? As we sat perfectly still in a cloud of dust I tried to recalculate our trip. Our buffer window of time was nearly spent.

Jade used that time to try to figure out what was happening ahead. It seemed that a semi truck had gotten a couple wheels stuck off the edge of the bridge. Many people were helping him but it didn't look very promising. There was a line of cars behind us and a line ahead of us. We were only about 10 cars back from the bridge ourselves. One brave Tacoma driver decided to 4-wheel-drive off the road and cut through the weeds. He was able to circumvent the wedged semi truck and we watched him drive victoriously onto the highway. I was filled with jealousy. Leaving our Tacoma in Vegas had been my choice. The Honda CRV we were driving was certainly more capable of off-roading than the Prius we left behind as well but since we weren't certain we could clear the same path, it was not worth the risk.

We waited, quite depressed, but trying to keep our spirits up. “We’ll be fine,” I kept telling myself. “We can pick up our speed later and make up some of what we lost,” …if we ever get out of here.

And we waited.

Then Jade noticed that the cars behind us were turning around and heading back down that farm road. It was the wrong way but at least we could move. Jade turned around as well (he turned about a 6-point turn and still got a little too close to the edge of the ditch that was deep enough to be called a canyon).

And then, there was a glimmer of hope. Jade saw that the cars that had turned around ahead of us were crossing the “canyon” on a rickety bridge that I had barely noticed before and were heading down the other side of the old farm road. The other direction of traffic had stopped so we had the road all to ourselves now. 

We quickly followed and didn't breathe a sigh of relief until we had passed the downed semi truck and cut back on to the highway. No road blocks in sight. What a relief.

We had spent 2 hours around Ciudad Obregon when it should have only been 20 minutes. Everything else had to go perfectly smoothly for us to get into Mazatlan “around” dark. Forget our hope of getting there before the sun went down. We were banking on that half hour of twilight after the sun went down but before the light was gone completely. We had been warned not to drive at night.

5:45 pm                Stopped for gas and bathroom breaks an hour past Guasave (1134 miles).

I was getting more worried about getting to Mazatlan before dark. Jade was tense and quiet but was trying not to let it get to him. But the sun was going down too fast. Google said the sun would set at 7:50. We should have still had 2 hours of daylight but the sun was much too low in the sky.

Then it hit me like a ton of bricks… I hadn't thought about time changes. I didn't know what time zone we were in. Our clocks said it was 6:00 pm but we realized it must have been 7:00. We knew we had less than an hour of daylight so that was the only thing that made sense.

I looked on my map. We were going to have to brave the last 130 km (81 miles) in the dark. Yikes!

The sun went down at 6:50 on our clocks, right on schedule for Mazatlan being an hour ahead of us. Jade tried to speed up. We were worried about the dark but we were more worried about getting pulled over so that was a losing battle. We stayed less than 10 km over the speed limit and decided to take our chances in the dark. As we pulled up to our last toll booth there were several cars ahead of us. “Well, at least we are not the only ones on the road,” I said to Jade. But he looked in the rear view mirror and saw complete darkness behind him, not a car in sight. Luckily he didn't bring that to my attention until later that night.
We were watching for danger, for animals on the road, or anything suspicious but tried not to be too worried. We just tried to relax and listen to our book. As soon as we saw signs for Mazatlan we were overjoyed.

I had realized that I forgot to bring a map with directions to our hotel. Oops! I didn't care, though. At least we were there. We had looked at a map pretty closely when we were deciding on a hotel and Mazatlan is not very big. We were confident that we could find it pretty quickly.

We took the first road into Mazatlan which read “Mazatlan Beaches.” We remembered that our hotel was right on a beach with a string of other hotels. We were sure we were looking in the right place until we hit a dead end and hadn't seen our hotel yet. We must be too far north, still. We had to back-track a little until we found signs to Mazatlan Centro.

8:30 pm                (9:30 pm local time) Pulled into our Hotel Ramada.

It was the last one on the street. It was exactly the time we had planned on arriving, the latest possible time by which we needed to arrive, but that hour of sun that we lost had thrown us for a loop. We felt extremely blessed and since we had made it safely, none of the details mattered. We finally took a deep breath of fresh, sea air and felt re-energized.

We checked into our hotel and found our room. We took a quick walk around the grounds and sat down by the waves for a few minutes. All I could do was pray thanks that we were there, safe, and that nothing went terribly wrong. All in all we were very lucky. We had some hold-ups but what road trip doesn't? We still had a few hours ahead of us the next day and so far the trip had been fairly smooth.

We were too tired to even worry about a restaurant. We had our leftover sandwiches in our room and fell asleep watching tv.

We slept SO GOOD and sleeping in the next morning was heavenly. Our breakfast was more leftovers but eating them while enjoying the view from our balcony was fantastic. Our hotel was gorgeous! It made me wish we were staying longer.


We went down to the sand to watch a surf competition that was going on just down the beach a little. We toyed with the idea of getting in the pool or the ocean but felt so clean after our hot showers that we decided against it.


We soon decided we were ready for the last leg of our trip and got ready to hit the road once again. Before I jumped in the car I grabbed a Plumeria flower that had fallen from a tree next to our car. Man, I have missed that smell!

Day 3

12:00 pm              Left Mazatlan

Thanks to wi-fi in our room we took screen shots of Google Maps on our cancelled cell phones. The directions took us through sketchy back roads because of 1-way streets through Mazatlan. I started getting nervous because there were so few street signs. We would see a sign and be filled with confidence and then a few miles would go by on windy back roads through tiny shack neighborhoods and my confidence would be shaken. Sure enough, there were signs every once in a while and Jade did an amazing job of navigating them. We ended up being in exactly the right place to jump on the highway south toward Puerto Vallarta.

12:45 pm              Stopped for ½ tank of gas (1321 miles).

The map showed it was the last gas station for quite a while and we didn't want to chance it.
South of Mazatlan felt like a different country. While the previous day had been pretty in its own desert way, this drive was green and lush and unbelievably gorgeous. We drove through valleys and mountains (well, hills really) that were covered in jungle. There were farms and orchards everywhere.


The highway to PV is a terrible road. The drive was on a very bumpy, curvy 2 lane road through the hills but what a view! For about an hour we were driving through a cloud on a jungle hill.


Shortly after Las Varas we found the road to Chacala. It’s only a few miles and took us from the highway out to the coast.

5:45 pm                Pulled into Chacala (1530 miles).

Felt like home already.



A couple notes:

Every bathroom we stopped to use had free toilet paper, for the record.

There was construction off and on almost the entire way from Nogales to Mazatlan.

We never got stopped for an inspection or to have our passes checked.

Total driving time: 8.5 + 15.75 + 5.75 = 30 hours in 3 days


Total miles: 1530

Total Tolls: 16 booths = 1,113 Pesos ($85.62 USD) 

For future reference for time zones. Although I don't think Mexico's Daylight Savings Time changed to reflect the changes the US made in the Energy Policy Act of 2005.


Sunday, June 9, 2013

“Feed that dog and he’ll be with you all summer.” The best advice I have been given since I got to this village yesterday was given to me by a local restaurant owner earlier this afternoon.

We were having lunch at Chac Mool where we met the owners, Arturo and Amelia, and their gorgeous 1-year old Chloe. The pizza we ordered was amazing but that may have been in part to the fact that all we had eaten were ab&j's (almond butter and jam), apples, and pop-tarts since we crossed the border nearly 2 days and 1,000 miles ago.

The dog that was begging for scraps was a well-known stray. Cute as the little guy was, I knew Arturo was right. If I fed that dog I would never be able to get him to leave my side. And being stalked by a hungry homeless dog is not exactly what I am looking forward to this summer.

What I am looking forward to is catching waves, making lots of friends, and taking long naps on the beach covered by a seemingly permanent, thin, crusted layer of salt. 
 
So what brought us to this tiny little Mexican village of Chacala and to venture into my first-ever blogging experience?

We got lucky. Vicki might say that the stars aligned and the certain planets were in orbit… but I’ll get to that.

It all started with Lolly and Pops. They were offered the chance to house sit for a friend of theirs but were not really in a position to do so, having just moved back to Vegas and were facing new jobs and many life changes. When Jade and I heard they were going to turn it down we sarcastically (although totally seriously) offered up our assistance.

The house belongs to Vicki, Tandy’s mom, both of who were great friends to Lolly when she ventured out here to Chacala 2 years ago for 3 months all by herself. Vicki and Tandy are both energetic, loving ladies who catch me off guard with nearly every hilarious, sarcastic, comment that flies out of their mouths with their sweet Georgia accents.

Tandy is a nanny in California right now and Vicki decided to flee the humid summer heat and visit the states for a while. When Pops emailed her suggesting that she consider us as a replacement she seemed thrilled.

Vicki’s life hobby and interest is astrology. She is very aware of how energy in the universe feels and how it might be affected by the alignment of certain planets or other heavenly events. So the stars must have been in our favor because she quickly accepted and we began preparing.

We quit our jobs, packed up our lives and waited until we could hit the open road.

We decided to drive to Mexico so we would have the freedom check out different surf spots and take shopping trips without having to worry about all the restrictions that a bus would give us. We traded our Prius and our Tacoma to Pops for his Honda CRV.

We bought an INVALUABLE map from a website online that gave us turn by turn directions on the toll roads from Nogales, Arizona to Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico. 

We mistakenly thought it would be easy to get Pesos from American banks so we put that off to the last minute. In case any of you might need to know this for future reference, the banks have to order the Pesos for you and it can take a few days to get what you need. Luckily Lolly came to the rescue and had some left over from a previous trip.

The drive was long but not unbearably so. I read an entire James Patterson novel aloud for the first day and a half. For the rest, we enjoyed a book on tape, Enders Game.

After 8 hours of driving, the first night we stayed in Nogales, Arizona. We crossed the border at about 5:30 am on the second day and drove all the way to Mazatlan, Mexico, arriving around 8:00 at night (which is 9:00 local time and we had been unaware of the time change) where we had a fantastic night’s sleep. We were so tired we hardly noticed the surf competition going on right outside our balcony at our beach front resort. It was a gorgeous place and we enjoyed waking up late and sitting by the water to unwind a little while.

We left Mazatlan around noon and drove into Chacala around 5:30 pm on our third day. What a gorgeous drive!! South of Mazatlan was so green and lush. We drove past countless farms, orchards, and rivers. We crossed mountains and drove through a cloud for about 2 hours. On the short road from the highway to Chacala I felt like I was back on Kauai, my paradise, and couldn't have been happier.

We went up to Lance’s house where we were scheduled to spend 2 nights. He’s very friendly and was a warm welcome in this new place. After getting settled a little, we headed down trail path to meet Vicki. What a delight she is.

We sat and talked for hours and returned first thing the next morning for more time with her. She was leaving to PV for the day to pick up Tandy from the airport so Jade and I just walked on the beach, got some delicious pizza at Choc Mool and had 2 naps. We considered the day a success.

I hadn’t met Tandy yet and I had heard her name so much from Lolly and Pops that I felt like we were family already (Jade met Tandy and Vicky when he visited his mom when she was here). So even though it was late and we were excited to get to bed we swung by Vicki’s again that night after they had returned.

They were stressed and packing up for their long drive the next day. They always drive because they take their children… I mean their dogs, which are as loved and cared for as children. We got some last minute instructions and said our goodbyes. It’s funny how you can love a person so soon after meeting them. I sort of wished they we going to be in town while we were here so we could be better friends.

The next morning we moved into our new home.

What a blessing!! We already feel so comfortable here and happy. The people that we have met are very nice.


My heart feels rejuvenated just looking at the jungle that is our front yard and surrounds our house. When my feet hit the sand I feel I am home and when I hear the ocean waves crash I wouldn't rather be anywhere else.